Han Oak 4.24

In Korean, Han Oak refers to Joseon-era traditional houses, defined by their careful consideration of the geography and changing seasons of the land they inhabit. While mindful of tradition and classical Korean flavors—many of them learned while aiding his immigrant mother in the kitchen—Cho's aim at Han Oak is less rigid adherence to the typical all-you-can-eat tabletop grill affair than to the articulation of the striking flavors that define the Pacific Northwest's bountiful foraged and farmed offerings, and his own coming-of-age as a chef.

At Han Oak, you begin, of course, with banchan: the generous assortment of small plates—acorn jelly garnished with garlic and scallion, a Korean take on French steamed egg custard, marinated Perilla leaves, to name a few—followed by, say, starters of dumplings, blood sausages, and mung bean pancakes. Mains of three meats, prepared three-different ways: salt pork belly, brisket bo ssam, marinated and simply salted short rib. Hold the rice (or at least minimize your intake) for the customary Korean fourth course of noodles—maybe steaming hand-torn noodle soup, in March and ice-cold buckwheat noodles in August.