Don't judge a restaurant by its setting. This hole-in-the-wall, with its red plastic tables and chairs, is a perennial local favorite. Prepare yourself for enormous portions, starting with the beloved sopa de frijoles (black bean soup made with onions, tomatoes, lime and fresh cheese). Moist fish fillets are cooked in a bed of oil and herbs and wrapped in a sheet of foil. If you only try one dish, make it the chile relleno: stuffed chiles lightly battered and fried and served with a side of pickled cabbage and rice.